About an hour’s drive from the bustling city centre of Florence – its touristy streets and crowded train station behind you – through the vineyard of the Chianti Region, lies a small, winding dirt road lined with the ever-so-Tuscan cypress trees.
Diligently follow this road, and it will lead you to a small hamlet called Borgo Pignano. In the heart of a 750-acre organic estate lies a small borgo that, since 2001, has quietly evolved into a sustainable oasis where Italian craftsmanship meets its long-standing companions: Luxury, Understatement and Tradition.
Borgo Piganano is, however, much more than a luxury hotel. It is a philosophy and way of living that not only embodies the elements of hospitality that one would naturally expect at this price point, but it also has a palpable aura that accompanies you throughout your stay.
The term Borgo translates to a small, historic village, hamlet, or fortified settlement. That’s exactly what Borgo Pigano is, a small town complete with a church, noble houses and what were – now converted to luxury villas – townpeople’s houses.
From the moment you walk into the main villa, a sense of tranquillity gently wraps around you. What for many might be a stressful moment, checking in at Borgo Pignano felt like a treat in itself, no reception to be sat waiting for but rather two gentle smiles, one from the valet kindly whisking your bags to your room and that of the receptionist who, while you sit comfortably in one of the plush coaches, takes care of all formalities for your stay.
Rooms and suites
If I could bottle the scent of Borgo Pigano, I would. The mere idea of the scent alone carries a breeze of serenity. Cypress, lavender and camomile are the accent notes that wrap your senses as you’re guided to your suite.
Suite – something of an understament – refers to what was once a private apartment within the noble family’s main house.
At a 70 sqm suite, it unfolds across a Living room, Bedroom, and a walk-in closet before arriving at what is, without question, the defining feature of the stay: a bathroom with a freestanding bathtub positioned in the centre of its own 25-square-metre room, overlooking the Tuscan hills. The bathroom has its own living room. Let that settle.
The suite is decorated with the thoughtfulness that only comes from the genuine care for a space. The décor maintains a healthy balance between the villa’s noble past and modern amenities. Original gold and baby blue decorative frescos from the 13th century line the ceiling, while the remaining walls of the room are painted in a soft blush pink — the precise colour of the Tuscan sky in the early hours of the morning. That is, if you wish to arise from one of the most comforting beds you’ve ever rested upon. 100-thread Egyptian cotton and plush mattresses are a tricky combination to abandon – even for the best of sunrises.
Borgo Pignano offers eight exclusive villas within easy walking distance of the main villa, restaurant, gardens, and infinity pool. Each is secluded, designed, and decorated in an elegant Tuscan style, offering heated private pools, sundecks, and stunning terraces and verandas with spectacular views of the Tuscan countryside.
RESTAURANTS AND BARS
Most of what you eat at Borgo Pigano comes from the estate itself – the vegetables, eggs, meats and cured salumi are all sourced, smoked and prepared within the properties’ 750 acres.
Breakfast
Breakfast is served either on the terrace overlooking the stone-carved pool or in the main restaurant. Here, the zero-kilometre philosophy is abundantly reflected in the curated breakfast buffet complemented by honey still lingering on the comb. An à la carte menu is also available where fresh eggs and pancakes are made to order.
Al Camino
Al Camino offers a more traditional Tuscan experience: a Florentine steak, a steak tartare, ravioli filled with wild boar and truffle, and one of my favourite Italian desserts of all time – la torta della nonna. In this restaurant, food is served at convivial tables, conducive to new friendships among fellow guests.
Villa Pignano
The property is home to a renewed Michelin-starred restaurant, where the kitchen’s relationship with its own ingredients reaches its most refined expression. The cavatelli al fresco di mare was the highlight of the meal. Here, fine dining is elevated beyond its natural form. The entire meal can also be elegantly paired with the estate’s wines – the rosé being exceptionally good.
The Bar
Then there is the bar. Led by two bartenders with genuine passion and considerable craft, the cocktail menu is inspired by Dante Alighieri’s Divina Commedia. The menu is divided into three acts — Hell, Purgatory, and Heaven — each section reflecting the flavour profile of Dante’s journey toward Beatrice. But if you’re a traditionalist like myself and love your martini shaken and not stirred, fret not, for those cocktails are executed heavenly well.
wellness and spa
Spa & Gym
The hotel offers both a Spa and a very well-equipped gym. Personally, a great hotel with little to no fitness amenities is a personal pet peeve of mine. Luckily for us, that is not the case with Borgo Pigano. A short walk (or buggy ride) away, an equipped gym awaits those who wish to work out. Moreover, for those who need some much-needed TLC, a complete spa with a sauna, steam room, relaxation shower, and a whole array of treatments is available.
Pool
Now, if anything I’ve written above hasn’t left you scambling to book a flight to Florence, the pool alone will make you change your mind. Imagine this, where once lay a deposit of raw materials and stone -likely a fruitful export of the town that once was – now, carved into it is a pool overlooking the blissful Tuscan hills. Need I say more?
A marble staircase leads you roughly eight metres below the main building to a heated pool that is both refreshing and delightful to say the least. Poolside service is available to those who wish to make the most of their time there.
WHY HERE, WHY NOW
Few properties on my rondevouz around the world have impressed as greatly as Borgo Pignano, on more levels than I can mention. Firstly, akin to my values is their commitment to sustainability. In a world where many corporations greenwash their way to your buck, Borgo Pigano shows the world how sustainability and above-par service collide seamlessly, elegantly, but certainly not effortlessly.
Which brings me to my next point: the staff. The attention to detail is beyond impeccable and, frankly, refreshing, with smiles all around and a deep-rooted passion for their craft. Of service towards others. I could write ten more paragraphs on why, but I’m not going to spoil the fun. A heartfelt thank you to Sir. Moritz on his fabulous creation, Angela on making sure that every aspect of our stay was simply perfect, and the wider team for a level of service comparable to few places I’ve had the privilege to call home, even for a night or two at a time.
PRACTICAL BRIEF
• Getting there: The nearest airport is Florence, about one hour away.
• Best season to visit: The property opens from March to November.
• Room rates: A suite in the main building avergaes to 2000 USD a night.
• Website: www.borgopignano.com
• Address: Localita Pignano 6, Volterra, Italy, 56048
